Tohoku (Tokyo) Earthquake – A Lesson in Humility Friday, March 11th 2011

When the Quake struck Tokyo late Friday Afternoon my family was spread out around the Greater City. My daughter was studying in after school care, my wife Interpreting on the 8th Floor of Prince Park Hotel near Tokyo Tower & I was at my desk at our Kawasaki Office. Connecting to bring everyone home was challenging but it finished well. (We are doing better than Tsunami Battered People in Northern Honshu.) Following are actions and observations making up our family’s Surreal Day:






-Quite a Shake: Our three story home/office building resembles thin houses more common to Amsterdam than Kawasaki. (It moves with strong winds.) Our Consulting Team is spread throughout the first and second floor. We are seasoned veterans of smaller quakes in Asia & (one staff member slept thru the devastating Earth Quake in LA). Our building shook, bent and seemed to bounce for several minutes. It was beyond anyone’s expectations. Yet, no serious damage; our television needed repositioning, small items including free standing photos fell, drawers popped open and books fell of shelves. Easy clean up without broom & dust pan.






-Technology Failure: Phone communication was near impossible soon after the quake but email went thru to destination. Land lines worked better than Cell Phones and Internet Based Phones failed in places such as Miura (In Law’s Home) when electricity was cut off. My wife’s meeting terminated and everyone was evacuated to the Parking Lot via staircase. She called us from a pay phone & emailed from her BlackBerry.






-Community Support: My daughter’s school gathered children to the soccer field. I could hear their adrenaline charged chatter from a Kilometer away. Our daughter had been sick to her stomach and remained scared as we walked thru the shell shock neighborhood on our return home. The eyes of our neighbors standing in the streets, sitting in front of their homes and businesses, and the teachers at the Elementary School were different. A people experienced with Natural Catastrophe, fearful but resided to their fate and ready to carry on with life’s responsibilities. The teachers & special care givers would spend the night at the school with children whose parents could not return home.






-Above & Beyond: Our Evening Care Lady hired thru the “Sliver Center” peddled her bike to our place minutes after the quake. She entered the home obviously stressed by the entire experience but immediately started work by taking my daughter to her desk to review homework. She stayed the night allowing me to pick up my wife sparing concern for “Mom’s” comfort & safety.






-Transportation Stops: Safety protocol determines closure and reinitiating of public transportation. Most major highways, subway and train lines closed from time of the Quake n Friday until Saturday Morning. People had to taxi, drive, bus or walk home. Roads and side-walks were jammed.






-Longest Parking Lot in the World: (I picked up my wife in Roppongi, a Center of Downtown Tokyo. This trip is normally a two hour journey. It rounded out to 10 Hours.) We were warm, safe and in the company of thousands of other drivers. Most drivers were courteous which isn’t always common to Japanese Road Ways. Many of us slipped the gear to Park and slept in short durations- waking slightly refreshed to move back into place in the vehicle line up.












-Long Walk: Unfortunate Evacuees (refugees) from Downtown Offices walked home, stayed in Coffee Shops, Restaurants, Public Buildings and very lucky ones found Hotel Rooms. Government Buildings opened to Public and Private Businesses showed compassion and support for the unfortunate people stranded. (The Roppongi Grand Hyatt put out chairs and offered bottled water to comfort anyone in their Lobby. Starbucks extended hours to accommodate stranded Tokyo Compatriots and some Izakaya became “one off bed and breakfast.”) Estimated 90,000 People stranded as of 3 a.m. Saturday Morning. (My wife wonders how they project such a statistic.)






-Tokyo is still standing: Not without damage; we witnessed fires and plenty of fire fighting vehicles on the return trip from Downtown Tokyo. There will be costs of repair and extended inconvenience but for the most part the Capital City stands strong. Let’s Pray and hope the People in Sendai and Miyagi get relief and luck changes in their favor.





-Life Goes On: It’s Saturday Morning & The kids are playing soccer in the little park next door. Garbage will be picked up by the City of Kawasaki as promised. The trains are back in service and we’ll soon be back at business as usual. But then again; (We awoke this "day after" to loud speaker announcements of possible water & electricity shortages.) Fun Continues.


-Over Whelming Support: Many thanks to family and friends who've sent well wishes. We are not alone in this World. You people make the difference. It's sincerely appreciated.

Miura Marathon - 10 Things to Love & Hate:

Miura City in Southern Kanagawa is famous for beaches friendly to Wind Surfers, Fresh Tuna and delicious “Daikon” a Giant Japanese White Radish.  It also hosts a very exciting and competitive Half Marathon.  The Miura Half Marathon follows the Tokyo Marathon by only 7 days but shouldn’t be negated.  It’s a real treat for any serious runner or weekend warrior. 

My In-Laws live in walking distance of the starting line and my Father in Law began his four year string of entries at the age of 64.  His passion and excitement for the Miura Runs motivated my entry last year and today.  Last year’s rain, wind and cold made for one of the toughest sporting challenges of my life. 

This year’s perfect March Weather with sunshine and virtually no wind was ideal but it was difficult for other reasons.  (The Course has serious climbs stretching over 2K.) Miura Marathon institutes time limits defining ultimate failure.  My goal in 2010 & 2011 was to finish within time restrictions; the 2010 Half Marathon demanded you cross the line in 2 hours and 20 minutes and the 2011 10 K  required a 70 Minute Finish. 

Following are 10 items to Love or Hate about the Miura Half Marathon Festival:

LOVE:

-1-LINING UP TO START:  Feeling like a Rock Star as the Paparazzi (family) take photos while wish you luck as you line up to start.  All this while standing in the midst of thousands of other runners performing pre-race rituals. (This Year’s 10K had 4000 Runners.)

-2- SCENERY: Clean Air, Views of The Ocean, Palm Trees, Bamboo Fields, Rural Japanese Homes, Rice Fields, Vegetable Gardens, Mountains, Temples, Shrines and a large Traditional Cemetery along the course.

HATE:

-3-WEATHER: The rain, cold, wind induced discomfort, & foot blisters that came with wet conditions.

 -4-CROWDS: The tight lanes that congest when course changes turn reasonable running paths into venturi with no hope for individuals to pass for better times or speed up to make the cut off. 

LOVE:

-5-COMPASSION: The runners and side line fans that successfully encouraged my father in law to continue after his Hip Flexor Injury.  (He wanted to limp to the side lines but other competitors wouldn’t let him quit with one kilometer left to run in his 5K Event.)  One over zealous spectator actually pushed him back onto the road way and yelled “Mousukoshi Ganbatte” (keep fighting –only a little more to go).

HATE:

-6-INJURIES: Making the decision to continue running & not assist a competitor who went down over a speed bump.  (It was the right choice as he was already being assisted by two other runners, a race observer, and the ambulance ultimately arrived in minutes.)  It didn’t feel right & still doesn’t.

LOVE

-7-FUN: The runners that dress in costumes. Many suit up as Giant White Japanese Radish “Daikon”, Fire Hydrants, Post Office Boxes and Comic Characters.  One Half Marathon Star paints his face like a Panda and runs in a China Dress. 

-8-RACING with ELITE ATHLETES: About 2K into the race the Police Motor Cade forces the Ten K Runners to the Left Side allowing the Elite of the Half Marathon to pass on the right.  I was humbled and inspired by the perfect glide and excessive speed of the athletes as they fly by us “also rans”.  (The crazy guy in the Panda Make Up and China Dress was in the Leader’s Pack.)

-9-RACE SOUVENIRS: A Beautiful Performance Running Shirt,  one Fresh Japanese Giant White Radish and a Color Finishing Certificate are collected at the Miura Beach after finishing the run. (We ate the fresh “Daikon” immediately after the race and it was sensational.) Talk about little big things; the race organizers promoted the local vegetable by handing out recipes for Daikon Dishes as you left the Beach.)

-10-FINISHING:  Making the half marathon cut last year in spite of wind, rain, cold and blisters was a personal triumph.  Beating the clock in this year’s 10 K without properly training was equally gratifying.  Both achievements were surpassed by my Father in Law who limped the final mile to record a reasonable time and Finish. 

Personally, the best part of the race has been locating my Bride on the finishers Beach to score a kiss that she’s awarded after both race completions. (It’s real motivation to sign up for the 2012 Event.)  Did I mention Finishing?

Miura International Marathon              http://www.miura-marathon.com/ (Japanese Only)

PASTA ITALIANO KICHIU: Futakotamagawa Station – A Sensational Place for Lunch

Last Sunday my wife and I found ourselves free for lunch.  (We dropped our daughter off at a Birthday Party and caught the train to Futakotamagawa to visit the Italian Trattoria “PASTA ITALIANO KICHIU”.  (We called in a Reservation the same morning and were fortunate to get a table for 2:00 pm.) The Restaurant is open from 11:30 am to 2:30 pm for lunch and seating is limited.  There’s room at the bar for about 9 individuals and five tables lined up against the wall. The kitchen is open air and the atmosphere is warm and comfortable. 

We ordered a Set Menu that included a mixed antipasti plate made with fresh local vegetables.  It came with a cup of nice vegetable soup lightly flavored with pumpkin.

 This was followed by a choice of Pasta or Risotto.  My wife’s risotto was delicious and the perfect texture might be well described as Al Dente.  My beef ragout egg noodle pasta was very tasty. 

 Main Courses of Grilled Fish and tender Beef Steak met all expectations. 

Our total bill for two complete meals was 6000 Yen.  (Beverages are not included in the set menu price.)

The KICHIU has a wine list well suited to their menu and special board. (My wife feels that the food favors the salty and spicy side of the equation lending itself to those who enjoy product from the vine.) We tried the Barbera d’Alba Superiore 2008.  The ruby red colored wine was light and peppery with an intense bouquet. It paired well with the Red Meat Dishes.

KICHIU has been one of our regular destinations as it is convenient to our home and always serves a quality product.  We find service at lunch best as the set menus favor timely delivery.  The young Part Time Staff working lunch are inexperienced but friendly.  (Japan’s Tabelog web site is full of critiques complaining about the professional but dour and stern faced waiters working evenings at this Trattoria.)  It is not a Restaurant that welcomes children but is a popular destination for couples. (There are plenty of other options for Italian Dining as a Family in Niko-Tama.) 

Bottom Line:  try the PASTA ITALIANO KICHIU for Lunch on a Weekend.  Make a Reservation and you won’t be disappointed.

Pasta Italiano Kichiu    http://www.kiwa-group.co.jp/restaurant/a100088.html     (Japanese Only)

Coach Larry Donovan; American Football in Tokyo (The Chrysanthemum and the Quarterback)

Coach Larry Donovan is my Client, Friend, and Father figure.  Find his Wikipedia Listing and you’ll read testaments to his Athletic Ability demonstrated at the University of Nebraska.  You’ll certainly learn about his success as a Head Football Coach at the University of Montana and the Professional BC Lions of the CFL.  There might be some nice articles on his marriage to Georgia ; an Artist, Scholar, Miss. Nebraska and the Miss. Congeniality Winner at the Miss Universe Pageant. 

You will find little if any Historical or Biographical Data concerning  his seventeen years spent living and coaching in Japan.  He left an indelible impression on the Sport of American Football in Japan and was a positive influence on everyone fortunate to work or play for him.

His tenure of two decades was unprecedented and remarkable.  It began at the peak of the Japanese Bubble and carried on thru tougher Economic Times in Japan.  The Coach survived the Team’s Sponsor switch from  Hitachi to a Mitsubishi –Hitachi Joint Venture Company called Renesas.  His Career in Japan also weathered internal bureaucratic changes at the Sponsor Companies and allowed for Annual Contract Renewals on seventeen successive occasions.  If asked, the Coach attributes his good fortune to luck & the efforts of the Football Team’s General Manager, Mr. Atsuyoshi Koike. ( I think that Winning Records and other factors also played into his Careers continuity.)

To appreciate the Coach’s impressive win and loss records (above .600) and the Hitachi Hurricanes climb from a poor Division IV Team to competitive Division I Japanese X-League Member, we need to understand the Challenges & Obstacles:

-The Coach did not have Japanese Language ability nor assistance from an Interpreter.  He did not have any association with Japanese Culture prior to landing in Japan to Coach Football.  All Practices and Team Meetings were held in English.  (A tribute to the intellectual nature of the team and their eagerness to learn the game.)

-Successful Teams in the X-League have Rosters full of All Japan Players from First Division Universities – the Hitachi Hurricanes were made up largely of Division II & III University Players.

-The Top Corporate Sponsored X-League Teams recruit great Players and find positions in the Corporation for as long as they remain part of the Team.  Hitachi Hurricane Players were Engineers hired to contribute to Integrated Circuit Projects and were given special permission to play Football.

-Division I Teams practice five days a week and play games on weekends.  The Hitachi Hurricanes practiced on weekends, holidays, during Vacation Season and met Wednesday Night for Team Meetings.

-Japanese Championship Teams recruit 15 to 20 New Players Annually and most Athletes play 3 to 5 Seasons.  Hitachi added 3 to 7 Players each year but most Hurricanes continued playing thru 8 or 9 Seasons. (The Players’ longevity is significant as their Family’s Spring & Summer Vacations and Weekends were sacrificed in favor of Football Practice and Games.)

Most of us wondered how the Coach would Win a game in Japan without language or cultural back ground, better or equally talented players, time to practice and a barely replenished aging roster.  I’d hold my breath on mornings after game days waiting to hear results and details from “the horse’s mouth.”  The results were always close.  The Hurricanes usually found ways to win and the Coaches Magic got them by – but never by much.  He brought innovation to the game and applied it in ways suitable to his personnel.  A novel swinging gate option to compensate for the absence of a reliable kicker, a double tight end offence that few 2^nd Division Defenses ever coped with and a Passing Game that allowed his Hurricanes to compete in Division I. 

His Team’s Motto was “Do your own Job.”  It united and focused a group of men more familiar with a Club Team’s Democratic and Playing Coach Style of Leadership.  He spent hours of time watching video to find ways to improve his team and prepare (over-prepare) for games.  The Hurricanes got better and opponents weaknesses found on film were exploited on Game Day.  His Game Plans were not complicated & Hitachi often won games by simply “running outside or inside the Defensive End” (depending on alignment to the Hurricane Double Tight End Offense).  The Great Ones make it look easy and the Coach made the right decisions.

The Team understood the Coach’s direction. A side line discussion with his Quarterback was overheard as follows:  “Run the 36 Tailback Option and don’t pitch!”  “Yes Coach,” replied the QB. “What did I say? “ asked Donovan,  “36 Tailback Option, don’t pitch.”  “Don’t pitch” repeated the Coach.  “Yes Coach, don’t pitch”.  The result was a well run play without risk that gained a first down, ran out the clock and advanced the Hurricanes from Division 2 to the Premier X League.  (The Coach’s rule in Japan was to pose important questions to more than one individual and be sure the answer was repeated for clarification.)

While in Japan, Larry Donovan exemplified focus, clear communication, the ability to condense complex planning to simple formula, an exceptional work ethic, and the ability to find ways to Win and make Winning his Team’s Habit.  He could converse with anyone (in English) starting with the common denominator of sports and especially football.  Mr. Koike, Team GM and a Business Vice-President at Hitachi was negotiating with Gentlemen from Texas Instruments and talks moved close to stalemate.  He called the Coach and asked him to drop by to join the group for some drinks in the Evening.  After three hours of conversation revolving around American Football the Coach departed for home.  “Is there anything else I can do?” he asked Mr. Koike.  “No, I think that will be fine.”  The mood was changed and business was successfully concluded the next day. 

At the end of the day it’s all about people.  Coach Larry Donovan is one of the finest. It’s not an overstatement to say that he left Japan and American Football in this Country a little bit better. Not a bad legacy. 

Wikipedia         http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Larry_Donovan

Valentine’s Day in Japan: A Celebration of Chocolate

Forty Years ago Japanese Chocolate Manufacturers launched one of the most successful marketing schemes of modern business.  Chocolate Sales on Valentine’s Day! 

Actually the concept of a Valentine’s Day (pronounced Barentain Dei) in Tokyo and gifts of Chocolate was a slow starter until the mechanisms of Japanese Social Structure were carefully harnessed. In short, Japanese Women were convinced that Chocolate should be given to your loved ones on Valentine’s Day. 

More importantly the practice of giving “Giri choco” (Obligation Chocolate) to your Boss, Father, or University Professors later took hold and brokers of coco beans stood back and smiled.  Today 10% of the Chocolate Industry’s $3.6 Billion Annual Sales is distributed in the first two weeks of February.

The Japanese Male of the 1950s would not easily buy into the Valentine’s Day Romantic Tradition but in the 70s the Confectionary Industry struck again with White Day.  The March 14^th counter to Valentine’s Day offers venues to men wishing to return favors by purchasing  candies and cookies for loved ones. My wife informs me that young girls who have gifted their favorite boy with chocolate wait for White Day to learn his true intentions.  If she receives candies, he likes her.  Cookies are a luke warm response. 

She also reminded me that husbands, fathers, bosses and other men lucky enough to get chocolate won’t enjoy a repeat gifting the following year without proper attention to White Day.  In fact, the Modern Day Japanese Women have serious expectations for White Day and suppliers such as Cartier, Louis Vuitton and Tiffany’s are enjoying the benefits.  (I bought my wife a new iPod Classic, yes, a white one.)

So how did this Canadian do on Valentine’s Day?  Scored big with serious chocolate.  Pierre Marcolini, GODIVA, FERRERO ROCHER, and some Potato Chip Chocolate by a Sapporo Company called ROYCE.  Japan is a utopia for a man Addicted to Chocolate.  But what about Romance you ask?  The Japanese save that for Christmas Eve (and that’s another subject for a Blog later this year.)

Taverna Ripieno at Nishi-Shinjuku; Excellent Food, Professional Service and it’s Affordable

The Nishi-Shinjuku 1-3-13 Block has three nice choices for Italian Food. 

The Italia Bar Vancale offers tasty  dishes to accompany their full range of Italian Wine Options. (It’s a great place to start or finish an Evening as the Crowd, Bar Tenders and Wait Staff are friendly & open to conversation.)

About 50 meters away the IL Saccomanno offers Roman Style Dishes and is proud of their wine cellar. (They’re a good option when the Italia Bar Vancale or our favorite,  the Taverna Ripieno (next door) is full. 

The Taverna Ripieno is a cozy Restaurant with limited seating (Four Tables and a counter that seats six people). Our Best Friend Jimmy Takada, who had kindly given us his Top 5 Restaurants in this blog, introduced us to this tavern.  Mr. & Mrs. Amemiya Taverna Owners work as a team, with the Maestro in the Kitchen and his Lady acting as Hostess, bus, waiter, and sommelier. 

We’ve learned to trust Mrs. Amemiya’s instincts for pairing wines with our favorite dishes and she’s never failed to steer us towards the tastiest of Daily Specials.  We enjoyed a Spanish Wine from the Navarra Region that had spicy character which stood up well against the garlic pastas and herbs of the poultry.  This Dining Experience was a lot of fun.

The fresh fish antipasti were delicious as was their Foie Gras.

You are welcome to request items outside of the Menu and Colorful Special Boards as the Mamiyas work to please customers.  They prepared a Penne All’Arrabbiata  Al Dente that stands up against any we’ve ordered in Japan or North America. 

And, don’t miss the Herb Chicken that converted my wife from life as a Vegetarian. 

The Dinner Sets are reasonable and finish with a mixed dessert plate or cheese. 

Caveats:  The Taverna Ripieno discourage patrons only interested in pizza or pasta snacks.  They also charge 200 yen per seat; a cover that doesn’t limit customers as most nights we’ve found the Taverna full.  Some of our friends have had difficulty finding the location but it’s not hard to locate if you keep your eye out for signs located on the second floor.  Mrs. Amemiya says she’s ready to serve English Speaking Guests and we expect her to step up to the challenge.

Taverna Ripieno   http://www.wood-river.co.jp/ripieno/map.html　(MAP in Japanese Only)

Italia Bar Vancale   http://r.tabelog.com/tokyo/A1304/A130401/13115753/

                               (Tabelog site Japanese Only)

Il Saccomanno        http://www.ilsaccomanno.com/access.html (MAP in Japanese Only)

KITADOKO Barber Shop, Established in 1871, History, Respect and Care for the Little Big Things

The Super Bowl Kick Off Time for fans living in Japan is painfully early and convenient only to Parties serving Breakfast, Mimosa, Bloody Marys and Cold Draft Beer for the intrepid.  We woke at 6 AM, traveled to our favorite Sports Bar in Hiroo, enjoyed a spicy breakfast conducive to cold beverages and witnessed a Great Green Bay-Pittsburg Championship Football Game (inclusive of the Black Eyed Peas half time show).  

The question:  what do you do at 11:30 AM on a Monday Morning after leaving a Super Bowl Party? You guessed it; your wife goes to Hot Yoga and you try out a famous Traditional Barbershop in Shibuya. 

The Kitadoko “Hair Salon” dates back to the Japanese Meiji Era (1871) and has been owned and operated by five generations of the Funakoshi Family.  As a student of Things Japanese it was a rare opportunity to look over artifacts proudly displayed and experience the same professional service and skill as Japanese Men whose names grace History Books. It is quite a list including Natsume Soseki (Author) , Nitobe Inazo (Statesman), and Hirobumi Ito (Japan’s First Prime Minister). 

On display was an original Congress Hydraulic Chair imported from the Dellar Barbers Supply Company of  1321 First Avenue, Seattle, Washington, USA.  They gave me a tour of antiques that included photographs, the Dellar Barber Supply Catalog, a Meiji Era Porcelain Shaving Bowl, old coins, bills and tobacco tins.  The mirror at the front door dates back to the original shop located in front of the Prestigious Tokyo University where much of the clientele worked or studied. 

From the early years of the shops existence the Funakoshi Management practiced the philosophy of caring for a customer’s physical and mental well being. Natsume  Soseki set the trend for a quiet atmosphere by replying to a Barber’s comment on the weather by saying “who cares, I’m here for a haircut and to relax.”  Until this day a customer will enjoy his experience without unsolicited conversation or hint of rush or urgency. My Hair Cut was indeed relaxing and was accompanied with a shave, shampoo & followed by a short face, shoulder, head and back massage.  The “Cut Course” took about 80 minutes and the fee was 5460 Yen.

Little Big Things: 

-Mr. Funakoshi took my glasses and cleaned them perfectly.

-A humidifying mist was sprayed on my face during the massage portion of the course.

-The staff use combinations of scissors, straight edge blades and electric clippers accordingly as results and patient comfort trump speed and efficiency at the KITADOKO Hair Salon.

-Customers have their choice of Tea or Coffee after the Course is finished.

-The KITADOKO accepts Credit Cards

-Mr. Funakoshi and his daughter kindly allowed photos and gave permission to Post them in this Blog.

Time spent at the KITADOKO was really a treat.  I’d recommend it to anyone ready to relax and enjoy time tested professional service.  When you start by caring for the top knots of Samurai and are still in business after 142 Years; you are doing a lot of things right.

Hair Salon Kitadoko  http://www.kitadoko.com/